PART III — ALEXANDRIA: WHERE EGYPT MET THE WORLD

“Some cities were built by history. Alexandria was built to become history.”

There is something different about arriving in Alexandria.

Cairo feels unmistakably Egyptian, while Luxor takes you deep into the world of the pharaohs. Alexandria feels like Egypt opening its doors to the Mediterranean—a city where Egyptian traditions met Greek and Roman culture, and where merchants, philosophers, sailors and travelers arrived from across the ancient world.

And it all began with a man who wanted to build something extraordinary.

⚔️ ALEXANDER'S CITY

In 331 BC, Alexander the Great founded Alexandria (Pearl of the Mediterranean) on the Mediterranean coast. Its location was almost perfect: a natural harbor, access to the Nile and a gateway between Egypt and the wider Mediterranean world.

After Alexander's death, the Ptolemaic dynasty continued his vision, transforming Alexandria into one of the ancient world's greatest cities and centers of learning.

For centuries, it stood at the crossroads of civilizations, where Egyptian heritage mixed with Greek culture and later Roman power.

And among its greatest treasures were two names that still echo today:

The Lighthouse.

The Library.

📚 THE LIBRARY OF ALEXANDRIA — WHERE THE WORLD'S KNOWLEDGE ONCE LIVED

Imagine entering a place where scrolls from across the ancient world were gathered together—covering mathematics, astronomy, medicine, philosophy, literature and history.

The Library of Alexandria, associated with the great scholarly institution known as the Mouseion, became one of antiquity's most famous centers of learning. Scholars traveled to Alexandria to study and exchange knowledge that would influence generations.

Then came the mystery:

How did it disappear?

The popular story tells of one enormous fire destroying the entire library in a single catastrophic moment. History is much less simple. Its decline likely happened gradually through political turmoil, conflict, changing institutions and the loss of scholarly support, with different destructive events affecting Alexandria over time.

So perhaps the greatest tragedy isn't that one fire destroyed everything.

It's that pieces of the world's knowledge may have disappeared slowly, until nobody could bring them back.

📖 THE LIBRARY RETURNS

And yet Alexandria refused to let the story end there.

In 2002, the Bibliotheca Alexandrina opened beside the Mediterranean, creating a modern library and cultural complex inspired by the memory of its ancient predecessor.

Its striking circular design rises toward the sea, while inscriptions representing different writing systems cover its exterior.

The ancient library disappeared.

Alexandria answered by building another one.

🏛️ THE SERAPEUM & POMPEY'S PILLAR

To understand Roman Alexandria, head toward the remains of the Serapeum, once one of the city's most important temple complexes.

Dedicated to Serapis, a deity whose cult brought together Egyptian and Greek traditions, the temple became an important religious center of the ancient city.

Nearby stands Pompey's Pillar, although despite its famous name, it wasn't actually built for Pompey.

The enormous red-granite column was erected in AD 297 in honor of Emperor Diocletian.

Together, the ruins reveal something fascinating about Alexandria: different civilizations didn't simply replace one another here—they often built directly over what came before them.

🏛️ CATACOMBS OF KOM EL-SHOQAFA

Now descend beneath the streets.

The Catacombs of Kom El-Shoqafa are among Alexandria's most remarkable underground monuments, dating to the Roman period.

Inside, Egyptian funerary traditions blend with Greek and Roman artistic influences, creating something uniquely Alexandrian.

It feels as though three civilizations entered the same tomb and left their fingerprints behind.

🎭 KOM EL-DIKKA — A CITY UNDER YOUR FEET

At Kom El-Dikka, archaeologists uncovered a Roman-era urban district containing a remarkably preserved theatre, baths and lecture halls.

Unlike royal tombs and monumental temples, this site gives you a glimpse of everyday Alexandrian life nearly two thousand years ago.

People gathered for performances, studied, bathed and went about their routines here.

For a moment, ancient Alexandria stops feeling like a ruin...

and starts feeling like a neighborhood.

🏺 THE GRAECO-ROMAN MUSEUM

To see more of the city's Greek and Roman heritage, visit the Graeco-Roman Museum.

Its collections preserve sculptures, coins, mosaics, jewelry and everyday objects from Alexandria and the wider region, offering a deeper look into the centuries when Greek, Egyptian and Roman cultures met.

After seeing the ruins themselves, the museum helps put the pieces of the ancient city back together.

🏺 ALEXANDRIA NATIONAL MUSEUM

Then comes the Alexandria National Museum, housed in a beautifully restored Italianate-style palace.

Its collection spans thousands of years, taking visitors from ancient Egypt through the Greek and Roman periods and into later Islamic and modern Egyptian history.

It's almost like walking through Alexandria's entire timeline under one roof.

🌊 THE CITY THAT SANK

But Alexandria didn't only lose monuments.

It lost entire pieces of itself.

Parts of ancient Alexandria now lie beneath the Mediterranean, where archaeologists have discovered columns, statues, architectural remains and pieces of the ancient coastline.

Centuries of earthquakes, coastal subsidence and powerful sea disturbances gradually transformed parts of the ancient city into an underwater archaeological landscape.

And beneath those waters lies one of Alexandria's most fascinating mysteries.

👑 CLEOPATRA'S UNDERWATER PALACE

The waters around Alexandria have revealed remains associated with the ancient royal quarter, including monumental architectural fragments and statues.

Traditions and popular accounts often connect these underwater remains with the palace district of Cleopatra VII, whose royal complex once stood along this part of the ancient coastline.

Whether you're looking at the remains of a palace, temple or royal complex, the idea itself is astonishing:

part of the world of Cleopatra is now beneath the sea.

🌊 THE LOST CITY OF HERACLEION

And Alexandria isn't the only ancient city hiding underwater.

Off Egypt's Mediterranean coast lies the submerged remains of Heracleion, an ancient port city that flourished before Alexandria's rise.

Its remains include enormous statues, temple fragments, inscriptions and countless archaeological discoveries.

Earthquakes, geological changes and rising waters gradually pushed the ancient settlement beneath the sea.

Today, divers can explore pieces of a city that disappeared from the surface for centuries.

Egypt didn't lose its ancient cities.

Sometimes...

the sea simply kept them.

🗼 THE LIGHTHOUSE OF ALEXANDRIA — THE WONDER THAT GUIDED THE WORLD

And then there was the monument that made Alexandria famous across the ancient world.

The Lighthouse of Alexandria, built on the island of Pharos during the Ptolemaic period, was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

It towered over the harbor and helped guide ships toward the city. For generations, sailors approaching Egypt would have seen the enormous structure rising above the Mediterranean.

🏺 THE LIGHTHOUSE & THE PYRAMIDS

There is an intriguing comparison between the Pharos and Egypt's ancient pyramids.

Both were colossal landmarks designed to dominate their surroundings and remain visible from great distances. There is no definitive evidence that the Lighthouse was directly modeled on the Great Pyramid, but the concept is fascinating: the pyramids announced Egypt's power across the desert, while the Pharos announced its presence to ships crossing the sea.

One dominated the land. The other dominated the Mediterranean.

Both told travelers:

Egypt is here.

🌊 HOW THE PHAROS DISAPPEARED

For centuries, the lighthouse survived changes of rulers, wars and the rise and fall of empires.

Nature eventually proved more powerful.

A series of major earthquakes between the 10th and 14th centuries progressively damaged the structure until the Pharos was largely destroyed. Its remaining stones were eventually reused in later construction, and the ancient wonder disappeared from the skyline.

But Alexandria has a habit of keeping pieces of its past alive.

Today, the Citadel of Qaitbay stands on or near the ancient Pharos site, with some accounts suggesting that stones from the lighthouse were incorporated into the fortress.

The wonder is gone.

Its memory isn't.

🏰 QAITBAY — THE FORTRESS OF THE PHAROS

Built in the 15th century by Sultan Al-Ashraf Qaitbay, the citadel was designed to defend Alexandria from maritime attacks.

Its location makes it extraordinary: a medieval fortress standing where one of antiquity's greatest wonders once guided ships into the harbor.

Walk through its walls, climb toward the upper levels and look across the Mediterranean.

For a moment, you can imagine the Pharos standing there again.

⛪ SAINT MARK — WHERE CHRISTIANITY MEETS ALEXANDRIA

Alexandria's story continued long after the ancient gods and Roman emperors.

Tradition holds that Saint Mark, regarded as the founder of the Church of Alexandria, arrived in the city during the first century AD.

The Saint Mark Coptic Orthodox Church carries that ancient Christian legacy into modern Alexandria and remains an important center of Coptic history and worship.

It's another reminder that Alexandria's history isn't one civilization replacing another.

It is layer upon layer.

🕌 ABU AL-ABBAS AL-MURSI — ALEXANDRIA'S ISLAMIC HEART

Near the eastern harbor stands the magnificent Al-Mursi Abu al-Abbas Mosque, one of Alexandria's most recognizable Islamic landmarks.

Its elegant domes, arches and detailed interiors dominate the surrounding district, while its location near the waterfront makes it an especially atmospheric place to visit.

From ancient temples to churches and mosques, Alexandria's skyline tells the story of centuries of religious and cultural transformation.

🕌 QAED IBRAHIM MOSQUE

Another beautiful landmark is the Qaed Ibrahim Mosque, located near Alexandria's central waterfront.

Its location makes it part of the rhythm of modern Alexandria, where religious life, cafés, shops and the Corniche all come together.

It's a good place to experience the city not as a museum...

but as a living community.

👑 MONTAZA PALACE — FROM PHARAOHS TO ROYALS

Now leave the ancient ruins behind and travel east toward Montaza.

Here stands Montaza Palace, surrounded by extensive gardens overlooking the Mediterranean.

The palace complex became associated with Egypt's royal family, particularly during the reign of King Farouk, and its architecture reflects a fascinating mixture of styles influenced by Mediterranean and European design.

But the palace is only half the story.

🌳 EL MONTAZA GARDENS

The surrounding Montaza Gardens stretch across a huge coastal landscape filled with trees, gardens and spectacular sea views.

After spending hours underground among Roman catacombs and walking through ancient ruins, Montaza offers something completely different:

space, greenery and the Mediterranean breeze.

Take your time here.

This is Alexandria at its most relaxed.

🌿 ANTONIADES GARDENS

Another beautiful escape is Antoniades Gardens, one of Alexandria's historic green spaces.

The gardens contain landscaped grounds, statues and architecture inspired by European garden traditions.

They offer a quieter side of the city, away from the traffic and crowds of the Corniche.

🏛️ ALEXANDRIA OPERA HOUSE

For another glimpse of modern Egyptian culture, visit the Alexandria Opera House, housed in the historic Sayed Darwish Theatre.

Built in the early 20th century, the theatre reflects Alexandria's cosmopolitan character and its long relationship with music, theatre and the arts.

The city that once attracted ancient scholars still has a stage for artists today.

🏛️ ROYAL JEWELRY MUSEUM

⚓ ALEXANDRIA NAVAL UNKNOWN SOLDIER MEMORIAL

Along the waterfront, the Naval Unknown Soldier Memorial pays tribute to Egypt's fallen naval personnel.

Standing beside the Mediterranean gives the monument an appropriate setting: the same sea that connected Alexandria to the ancient world remains central to Egypt's modern maritime identity.

🐘 ALEXANDRIA ZOO

For something completely different, the Alexandria Zoo offers a more family-oriented stop away from the archaeological sites.

It's a reminder that Alexandria isn't simply an archaeological destination.

It's a living city where history, everyday life and modern entertainment exist side by side.

⛪ MONASTERY OF SAINT MINA

Outside the heart of Alexandria, the Monastery of Saint Mina offers another window into Egypt's Christian heritage.

Associated with Saint Mina, one of Egypt's most famous Christian saints, the site connects Alexandria and the surrounding region with the long history of Coptic pilgrimage and monastic tradition.

🌳 AL-SHALLALAT GARDENS

Near the historic center, Al-Shallalat Gardens provide another green space within the city.

The area also carries traces of Alexandria's old defensive history, making it an interesting stop for anyone wanting to explore the city beyond its most famous monuments.

🏙️ DOWNTOWN ALEXANDRIA — HISTORY IN THE BUILDINGS

And now comes a part of Alexandria that doesn't require an archaeological ticket.

Just walk.

Downtown Alexandria is filled with grand historic buildings, balconies, European-influenced façades and streets that reflect the city's cosmopolitan past.

Italian, Greek, French and Egyptian influences can all be seen in its architecture.

The buildings aren't simply decoration.

They are evidence of the international city Alexandria became.

Take a slow walk through the historic center, look upward and pay attention to the details.

Sometimes the best museum in Alexandria is the street itself.

🚋 THE TRAM — SEE ALEXANDRIA SLOWLY

And when your feet get tired, take the historic tram.

Alexandria's tram system is among the oldest in Africa and has become one of the city's most recognizable symbols.

From the window, the city passes by naturally—old buildings, markets, neighborhoods and glimpses of the Mediterranean.

It isn't necessarily the fastest way around.

That's exactly why you should take it.

🌊 THE CORNICHE — WALK WHERE HISTORY MEETS THE SEA

Eventually, make your way to the Alexandria Corniche.

This long Mediterranean waterfront is where the city's past and present seem to meet. Families walk beside the sea, fishermen watch the water, cafés fill with conversation and ships pass through the same Mediterranean that once carried Greek and Roman travelers into Alexandria.

Take a walk around sunset.

Look toward the horizon.

Then remember that beneath those waves are pieces of the ancient city.

The view hasn't changed as much as you might think.

🌉 STANLEY — WHERE THE CITY MEETS THE MEDITERRANEAN

Then comes Stanley Bridge, one of Alexandria's most recognizable modern landmarks.

Its elegant arches stretch across the Mediterranean beside the Corniche and create one of the city's classic views.

Walk along the waterfront, stop for a photograph and stay until the city begins to light up.

Because Alexandria has another personality after dark.

☕ ALEXANDRIAN NIGHTS

Alexandria has always been a city of cafés.

Today, you can sit beside the Mediterranean, explore the historic center or disappear into one of the city's traditional cafés and simply watch Alexandrian life unfold.

Coffee, tea, conversation and the sea breeze can be enough.

And after that...

it's time to eat.

🍽️ THE TASTE OF ALEXANDRIA

If Luxor and Aswan taste like the Nile and southern Egypt, Alexandria tastes like the Mediterranean.

🌶️ ALEXANDRIAN LIVER

Thinly sliced liver cooked with garlic, chili, peppers and spices, usually served hot in bread. Spicy, simple and deeply associated with Alexandria's street-food culture.

🦐 ALEXANDRIAN SEAFOOD

Fish, shrimp, calamari and crab prepared grilled, fried or baked with local spices.

With the Mediterranean practically outside the door, seafood is an essential part of experiencing Alexandria.

🍝 MACARONA BECHAMEL

Layers of pasta, seasoned meat and creamy béchamel baked until golden. It isn't exclusively Alexandrian, but it is one of Egypt's ultimate comfort foods.

🍰 HAREESA

A rich semolina-based sweet soaked in syrup and often finished with nuts.

Golden, dense and seriously sweet.

🧁 DÉLICE — ALEXANDRIA'S SWEET CLASSIC

Few names are as closely associated with Alexandria's old pastry culture as Délice, established in the early 20th century.

Its pastries and desserts have become part of the city's culinary identity, and its cheesecake is particularly famous among Alexandrians and visitors alike.

If you have room for dessert...

make the room.

🌅 ALEXANDRIA AFTER DARK

Eventually, the sun disappears into the Mediterranean.

The Corniche lights up, cafés become busier and Stanley Bridge glows above the water. Somewhere beneath that same sea are the remains of a city that once stood at the center of the ancient world.

That's Alexandria.

Built by Alexander.

Transformed by the Ptolemies.

Shaped by Rome.

Influenced by Egypt.

Changed by Christianity and Islam.

Damaged by earthquakes.

Partially swallowed by the Mediterranean.

And rebuilt again and again.

It has lost monuments, libraries, kingdoms and entire pieces of itself—yet it never disappeared.

🌊 THE CITY THAT REFUSED TO DISAPPEAR

Maybe that's Alexandria's greatest story.

Not the Lighthouse.

Not the Library.

Not the temples or the palaces.

It's the fact that after more than two thousand years, Alexandria is still alive.

The tram still moves. Fishermen still watch the Mediterranean. Families still walk the Corniche, cafés still fill with conversation, and ships still enter the harbor.

The ancient Lighthouse is gone.

Much of ancient Alexandria lies beneath the waves.

But the city remains.

Because Alexandria was never just a collection of monuments.

Alexandria was an idea.

And somehow...

the idea survived.

🇪🇬 This is Egypt.

A country where sometimes the greatest discovery isn't something you find beneath the sand.

It's realizing that the civilization you're looking for is still alive around you.

🧭 ALEXANDRIA — THE JOURNEY AT A GLANCE

🏺 Ancient Alexandria

• Serapeum of Alexandria

• Pompey's Pillar

• Catacombs of Kom El-Shoqafa

• Kom El-Dikka

• Ancient Library of Alexandria

• Lighthouse of Alexandria

• Cleopatra's underwater palace & royal quarter

• Sunken archaeological sites

• Lost City of Heracleion

🏛️ Museums & Culture

• Bibliotheca Alexandrina

• Alexandria National Museum

• Graeco-Roman Museum

• Royal Jewelry Museum

• Alexandria Opera House

• Saint Mark Coptic Orthodox Church

🏰 Historic & Islamic Alexandria

• Citadel of Qaitbay

• Sidi Morsi Abu al-Abbas Mosque

• Qaed Ibrahim Mosque

• Montaza Palace

• El Montaza Gardens

• Antoniades Gardens

• Al-Shallalat Gardens

• Monastery of Saint Mina

🌊 Modern Alexandria

• Alexandria Corniche

• Stanley Bridge

• Historic tram

• Mediterranean beaches

• Downtown Alexandria

• Historic cafés

• Alexandria Zoo

• Naval Unknown Soldier Memorial

🍽️ Taste Before You Leave

• Alexandrian liver

• Mediterranean seafood

• Macarona Bechamel

• Hareesa

• Traditional pastries

• Délice cheesecake

🧭 NEXT — PART IV

We've followed Egypt from the pyramids to Luxor, through Nubia and Aswan, and finally to the Mediterranean.

But there is another Egypt waiting beyond the cities.

A place of endless dunes, ancient caravan routes, hidden oases and landscapes that look almost unreal.

The temples disappear. The cities disappear. Even the Nile disappears.

And ahead lies nothing but desert.

🏜️ PART IV — THE WESTERN DESERT: INTO THE UNKNOWN

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